Tatti

A Maremma medieval village of 100 doors

The medieval village of Tatti in the metalliferous hills of Maremma near Massa Marittima is something of a mystery: a tranquil Tuscany village on the top of a wooded hill with its own castle in which the only sounds are those of an elderly lady sat in her doorway or a sleeping cat stretching.

Its castle and ancient city walls hold to this day the secret of its early history.

Very little is known about the early history of Tatti: although fragments of Etruscan pottery have been found in the area and would suggest a settlement linked with nearby important Etruscan city of Vetulonia, nothing more concrete has been found.

The earliest documentary evidence is from the middle ages, at the end of the ninth century, and that contains scant information.

But the mystery of Tatti for me lies in its doors.

Pure tranquility in a breathtaking setting with stunning panoramic views to the neighbouring hill top castle of Montemassi and beyond the Tuscan coastline to achipelago islands and Corsica.

I have visited many medieval Tuscany towns and villages and have been enchanted by nearly every one of them, but none have invoked such a curiosity entering their medieval gateways as Tatti. For such a small place, Tatti's historic medieval centre - which is so well preserved it is much as it would have been 900 years ago - has a profusion of doors, the quantity of which in such a few square metres I have never come across before. Each one is only a few inches away or set directly at ninety degrees from another. Notwithstanding that originally many of the lower entrances would have been access for storage and animals, the number of homes squeezed into one place is just incredible.

And then there is an incredibly narrow passageway: the narrowest medieval alleyway I have ever seen. And very low arched passages that are passable only on knees with stooped heads.

My first visit to Tatti left me captivated and wondering who and how many people had lived within the protection of its walls.

And then by chance I met a Maremma photographer who was born in Tatti and he told me that, although he had lived along the coast in Follonica for the most part of his life, his heart still belonged to his birth place to which he returned often. Which led him to tell me of the legend of the well in the centre of the village...

So one Saturday afternoon during a glorious Spring weekend in Maremma in Tuscany, I returned to take another look.

The history

Plan from the old land registry of Lorenese (1824). The course of the curved line of the houses traces the city wall of the original fortified centre, on top of which stands "la rocca" - the fort.

The text in Italian is taken from the information board provided by the Comunita Montana Colline Metallifere; each of the English translations are my best effort!

A rural centre between mining and transhumance

Despite the reconstructions made over the centuries, the curve of the houses of Tatti's historical center still take the path of the circuit of their medieval walls. At the current Via A. Cappelletti, there is an arched door within a stone archway, which was originally provided with lead missiles.

The summit area of the town is occupied by a large fortified architectural complex organized around a courtyard, which is accessed through two ports in round-arched sandstone. In the north-eastern corner of this small fortress stands a tower built upon a high scarp base, identifiable as the keep of the castle. Its current version is the result of a series of massive interventions made during the last decades of the fourteenth century by the Sienese family of Malavolti.

In the village, between the keep and the underground cistern, is the parish church of Santa Maria. A medieval building of original Gothic plan it was largely rebuilt, but some fragments of the original construction remain along the right wall of the church. The inhabitants of Tatti also have the church of San Sebastian, located inside the walls, and that of SS. Annunziata located outside of them.

The Documents

The first mention of the town is at the end of the ninth century, when it was recalled that someone called 'Gumpulo de feel ' was required to work the "corvees" for three days a week, to the benefit of the property located in the area of the Lago dell'Accesa of the bishop of Lucca.

The rule of the Counts of Aldobrandeschi and the Counts Pannocchieschi over the castle

The date of the foundation of the castle is not known, but it is known that it already existed in 1216 when it was included in the division of the assets of the Aldobrandeschi family. To this family belonged to Ildebrandino di Guglielmo who, in 1268, granted the castle of Tatti to Bernardino di Gherardo da Perolla, of the Counts of Pannocchieschi.

The mines of the territory of Tatti

According to a thirteenth century source, Ildebrandino di Guglielmo of the Aldobrandeschi family of Sovana and Pitigliano, granted Bernardino of the late Gherardo da Perolla the castle of Tatti with the attached silver mines. Indeed, not far from the castle metalliferous mineralization was re-discovered: an inventory of mines in the Republic of Siena written between 1548 and 1552 attests to that fact in the territory of Tatti, a distance of about 2 miles from the town, was an active silver mine. A note written a few years later, also refers to the discovery of a specimen called 'margassita Tatti'.

Until the final closure of Maremma's mines in the late 1980's/early 1990's, mining remained the principle activity of the residents of Tatti. Now it is a place of mainly retired folk and a few second homes belonging to lovers of Maremma from neighbouring European countries.

When I walked around there were a few homes - some in need of renovation - for sale: perfect hideaways for those seeking tranquility and solitude in an undiscovered part of Tuscany.

The doors

Try counting them for yourself! If you walk up the first steep steps towards the centre of Tatti (just follow the historic centre sign from the southern end of the village), as you take the two ninety degree turns along the path to reach the first main arched gateway start counting: I stopped when I reached 100! Four in the above photograph, this one in need of some tender loving care (renovation) and deep pockets!

And there are many more!

Events

Photo courtesy of bonizios.

The "Sapori d'Autuno" - Tastes of Autumn event is held during the first weekend of November each year with displays of local artists work, street artists, Maremma speciality foods, and a wonderful opportunity to visit the ancient cellars behind some of the doors pictured above!

Check this Maremma events in November page for the actual dates and further details for each year.

Places to eat

Like most Tuscany villages, Tatti has two bars. One of which - the Il Barrino - is also the local restaurant and pizzeria with a large covered terrace with great views of the surrounding Maremma countryside.

Or, if you have a picnic with you, there is a pretty and well attended small public garden directly opposite the Il Barrino with a view of the castle above.

Holiday Accommodation

In the village itself - along the road that circumvents the historic centre - is the La Fattoria di Tatti with affitacamere rooms. It isn't the cheapest bed and breakfast option in Maremma, but then you will be sleeping in spacious rooms within what was once the summer villa of the Italian and French Marquis Giovanni Barabesi Bourbon di Pitrella.

The accommodation in this impressive and old large stone 18th century building, fronted with the eagle and crown insigna of the Marquis, comprises of six suites and two large double rooms with panaoramic views, terrazzo floors, and one even has an antique cast iron bath tub. You can use the villa's kitchen to prepare your own dinner, or arrange for a local chef to do so for you. Or for dining out, the Il Barrino restaurant and pizzeria is only a one minute walk away.

The B & B accommodation has excellent reviews.

Alternatively, what could be more wonderful during your Tuscany vacation than sleeping in a vineyard - well not under the grapes themselves! but in the organic Valdonica Winery & Vineyard Residence and one of the most highly rated Maremma accommodations.

Situated seven kilometres away in nearby Sassofortino choose to sleep in either one of the colourful six guest rooms with private terraces in the Cantina Valdonica itself, or in one of the three guest rooms in the Villa with stunning views and a master room with an open fire-place.

Check availability with the lowest prices guaranteed.

There is an outdoor swimming pool, trekking routes through the organic estate, Icelandic horses, sheep... Lunch and dinner are available and guests have the option to taste the vineyards wines for free.