Sticciano

Maremma

I first saw Sticciano in the distance at dusk one balmy October evening whilst walking around the perimeter of the beautiful medieval Montepescali. The sky was changing from blue to hues of grey and pink and on the next hilltop sitting proud out of the valley below, lights were glistening... the whole scene held a mystical air about it.

Although we had already had a full day of exploration my family decided to have one more adventure and off we set in a race against time from one hill top to another to get there before dark.

In Sticciano Scalo all access up the hill to Sticciano was blocked by a brass band in full swing. As we waited, the sun sunk even lower in the sky and doubts started to creep in as to whether this was a good idea.

Then, once through the ensemble, and at the base of the hill, we were greeted by a large sign that proclaimed that the road was narrow and dangerous and to proceed with caution! Up we went.

By this time the sun had nearly gone and the densely wooded hills that surrounded the village somehow made the coming darkness seem more intense and broody... We walked into Sticciano and I will never forget the feeling that, for all intents and purposes, we were entering a medieval hamlet in which time had stood still. The tranquility was intense and brought with it a sense of the isolation and harshness of life here hundreds of years ago.

Today is a gloriously warm mid January day and, although the village is now bathed in sunshine and a few cars come and go, it is as peaceful a place as it was last October and the intense tranquility remains.

The only sounds are occasional dogs barking in the distant woods - "il cacciatore", the hunters looking for cinghiale (wild boar), "fagiani" (pheasants) and "caprioli" (deer) caprioli.

Sticciano is a hamlet in the commune of Roccastrada, situated on the top of one of the outermost of the north western hills of the massif of Monte Leoni. Mainly constructed in medieval times, little in appearance has changed since.

The very centre of the village is only accessible on foot, with acute corners and narrow passageways guarded over by family cats.

Its buildings are full of character: a few deralict, some showing all the signs of recent and expensive restoration (probably second homes), but mostly occupied homes.

At the time of my visit a major restoration is underway of the only large "palazzo" in the village.

There is no bar or post office or village shop: you will need to go down the hill to Sticciano Scalo for these.

The romanesque church, Chiesa della Santissima Concezione, is also known as the church of Santa Musticola.

History

The Centrale Commerciale Naturale di Toscana information sign for the village reads:

"The first reference to Sticciano dates back to 966 A.D. After the surrender of Montemassi, the feud, that belonged to the Aldobrandeschi family, was submitted to Siena.

In 1461 it became the property of the Piccolomini to whom the Medici confirmed the rule making Sticciano a granducal centre.

The hamlet is still intact and interesting for his picturesque views and the landscape of the plain below. It is worth a visit the romanic Church of Santa Musticola together with the Piccolomini, a sturdy baronial house in the shape of a seventeenth century pavilion.

The church of Santa Musticola is made up of a single nave ending in a semicircular apse, with an elevated presbytery and a rectangular bell tower on the right, inside the church, and two interesting portals: the main one with an architrave decorated by two romanic crosses and the lateral one with a decoration made up of mouldings on the jambs and palm trees with crossed leaves on the frame of the double archivolt.

On the top of Monte Leoni, some kilometres far from the village, there is a circular stone hedge indicated as the remains of the walls belonging to a fortification, with features similar to the castle of Moscona."

Spectacular panormanic scenery

This special place will never be on the tourist 'must visit' route for Tuscany, and for that I am glad. It is a place of pure tranquility, a place to stop and stare at the beauty of the geography laid out below and around you. A place to calm the heart and soul.

For those a little more energetic, the village lies along one of the Trekking Roccastrada routes, with the trek to Roccastrada quoted on the information sign as having a duration of 5 hours 30 minutes.

To the south-east and beyond Montepescali, you can see the coast of Maremma Grossetana and the Tyrrhenian Sea glistening in the sun. Cast your eye around towards the north and you will see the medieval hill top towns of Guincarico, Montemassi and Roccastrada.

Places to Eat

There is only one restaurant in the village, Il Fraotoio Pizzeria Ristorante and Spaghetteria, situated in Piazza Vitt. Veneto.

It is open every evening during the summer season, with a piano bar on Wednesdays. Winter opening times are Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, and Sunday lunchtime and evening.

Probably best to telephone in advance of making the trip: 0564 577091.

Getting there

By far, the easiest option is by car. Take the SS1 exit for Braccagni. At Sticciano Scalo follow the sign for "Centro storico and chiesa romanica sec.xii 4km" and continue through this village up the hill to Sticciano.

The road has a few hair pin bends and it is a little uneven in places, but no more so than many parts of the SS1 superstrada that I know. So don't be put off by the caution sign. In icy conditions it will be treacherous, just like any other isolated road.

If travelling by train, there is a train station that lies along the Ferrovia Siena-Grosseto line at the bottom of the hill in modern Sticciano Scalo.

The Map

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